Already she has turned back to the others: the man with a dark beard and a hunter’s eyes; the woman in her fifties with dank gray hair; the young man with a shaved head who keeps whispering to the ...

Jessie Byron flanked by sons Parnell "Pops" Gervais, left, and Wagner "Poosh" Gervais, and Parnell's son, Preston Gervais, at Pops & Poosh in Baldwin. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus ...